The water main or your private well is the beginning of your plumbing system. There will likely be a main shut-off valve once it enters your house for emergencies. Then water may go through things like a pressure tank, water heater and water softener before going into the walls and floors through lead, copper or PVC pipes and into your toilets, washing machines, faucets, shower heads and spigots.

With all that your home plumbing system does for you, it should come as no surprise that it accounts for approximately 15 percent of the total value of your home. Obviously, you will want to protect this value. The first and most obvious place to start is to look for water leaks in your home. According to the EPA, easily fixed water leaks are responsible for wasting almost 1 trillion gallons of water per year in U.S. households. This can also cause water damage to the rest of our home.

The average home loses almost 10,000 gallons every year to leaks. You could do 300 loads of laundry with that much water. This amount of water loss could result in 10 percent higher water bills. Furthermore, the EPA states that 10 percent of homes are wasting 90 or more gallons per day! A good example of a costly leak would be a leaky faucet. If it drips once per second, it can waste over 3,000 gallons a year. That’s more than you need to take 180 showers.

However, not all leaks can be fixed by the homeowner, especially hidden leaks. Here’s a couple of ways to determine if you have a leak problem that may need professional attention.

1. Review your water bills for January or February to determine your water use in gallons or CCFs. If a family of four uses more than 12,000 gallons or 16 CCF in one of these months, they probably have a leak problem that has become serious.
2. Check your water bills for spikes in water usage. This could also indicate a leak problem.
3. Take a reading from your water meter at a time when you are not using any water (this is key). If, after two hours, the reading is not exactly the same, you likely have a leak. Many meters have leak detection dials which will spin if there is a leak in your plumbing system, so you won’t have to read the meter.

Finally, it’s a good idea to ensure that all members of your household know where the water shut-off valves are and how to use them in case of a burst pipe. Getting the water shut off quickly can avoid a lot of damage. And make sure you know where your main shut-off valve is.

Plumbing Maintenance Checklist

Home plumbing maintenance is something you can do daily, weekly, seasonally and annually to keep your plumbing system running smoothly. Maintenance of your plumbing system consists not only of little DIY projects, but also of being aware of all the things that can go wrong with your plumbing system, and all the things you can do to keep things from going awry. Here is a plumbing maintenance checklist to get you on your way.

Check for Leaks

Checking for leaks may be one of the most important plumbing maintenance chores you can do around your house to keep your plumbing system from running into expensive problems down the line. A little leak, left unchecked, can turn into a nightmare if walls, ceilings or flooring are damaged, not to mention the cost of the professionals who have to come out to do the repairs to the plumbing. Here’s a leak checklist for you. Some should be done more frequently than others.

Some of the most common places to find leaks in your plumbing system will be:

• Faucets
• Toilet flappers
• Shower heads
• Pipe fittings

These should all be inspected often. Use these tips when inspecting:

• Turn on all faucets; no water should come out of the handles or valves. Dripping faucets are the most common plumbing repair.
• Check your toilet flappers for a tight fit so water is not leaking into the bowl and causing the toilet to run more than it should.
• Turn on the showerhead and see if it drips or has stray spray that you can’t stop with tape.
• Check under your sinks for signs of leaks, such as puddles of water, water marks, musty smells, and mold. Also look at the pipes for signs of moisture at the fittings.
• Check at the base of the toilet for any moisture.
• In the kitchen, check the faucet, disposal, pipes under the sink and the sprayer.
• Check for any water pooling under dishwashers or refrigerators that have icemakers, which could mean a leak in the supply line. You should also check for water pooling under your washing machine, which could also mean a supply line leak, and under your water heater.
• In addition, according to HUD, you should check the following for leaks annually:
  • Walls, windows, doors, and ceilings for signs of water damage
  • Washer hoses and connections
  • Dishwasher hoses
  • Dishwasher and washing machine water connections for security and leaks and corrosion
  • Refrigerator drip pan-icemaker connections
  • Traps and drains under sinks, tubs and showers
  • Hot water heater (in the fall)
  • Boiler (in the fall)
  • Water main/meter or well pump for leaks or sweating (in the fall)

Also, annually check:

• The caulking around the tub, shower and sinks in the bathroom. Water can get in your walls or under your floors if there are cracks. Repair as needed. Periodically remove and replace all caulking. Do this in the kitchen too.
• Your garden hoses in spring for damage as they can become cracked or can dry rot during the winter. A single leaking hose roughly the diameter of a dime can waste more than 6,000 gallons of water in just one month. Also check for leaks at the spigot itself.

Prevent Clogs

Clogs in the drains are one of the most common plumbing problems. Preventing a clog now can save you having to deal with a bigger clog or complete blockage later. Also, clogs put pressure on your pipes, which can reduce their useful lifespan. Here is a home plumbing maintenance checklist for preventing clogs to help you out:

• Take apart your tub, shower and sink drain traps periodically to remove hair and debris and snake the branch drains to remove any clogs that may exist there.
• Use screens or drain baskets in the tub and shower designed to catch hair so it won’t go down the drain.
• Cut down on your use of bath oils.
• Clean out the P-traps under your sinks.
• Never put grease, oil, or fats (including butter) down the drain. They can solidify in your drains, causing blockages.
• Use your garbage disposal properly. Leave the water running for about 15 seconds after you turn the disposal off to clear the drain. Don’t put fibrous foods like celery, banana peels or meats down the disposal. Use common sense.
• Don’t flush things down the toilet that it wasn’t designed for, like feminine products, disposable diapers, paper towels, cat litter, hair, etc. If you do get clogged toilets often, it could be a warning that there is an issue in the main sewer line.

A slow drain is an obvious sign that you are getting a clog. You can deal with some blockages yourself by cleaning out the P-traps and branch drains or by pouring a solution of baking soda, vinegar and boiling water down the drain. If the drain is totally clogged, don’t use a drain cleaner. You will probably just get a big pool of very caustic water and may even make the clog enlarge.

Other Preventative Measures

There are many things you can do around your home to prevent problems further on. Here is a list of preventative plumbing maintenance ideas to get you going:

• For each of your fixtures, test your water supply shut-off valves to ensure they are working properly.
• Using the baking soda and vinegar solution on your drains regularly will help keep water moving by breaking up normal buildup.
• If your dishwasher fills slowly or retains water, check the water discharge hose for any clogs or pinches.
• Check washing machine hoses for cracks, brittleness or bulges. Any with these should be replaced. Check the water intake pipe for rust inside and replace the fittings and pipes if necessary.
• Flush your water heater annually to remove the buildup of sediment which can cause leaks.
• Keep your water heater’s temperature set at 120° F. This is the temperature at which the appliance works best and has the longest lifespan.
• In the fall, turn off the water supply to your outdoor spigots and remove any hoses. Turn the spigot on and drain any water left in the line. This will prevent freezing of your pipes.
• Check your home’s water pressure with a pressure gauge to make sure it is not too high and putting stress on your plumbing system. Regulators can help keep the water pressure at a proper level.
• Check the water supply hose in your refrigerator if it has a water dispenser and icemaker. Replace the hose if it is worn.
• In the winter, especially in colder climates, insulate pipes in areas that are not heated, like crawl spaces, garages and basements. In some instances you may want to use heat tape to protect them.
• Look at all of your visible pipes. Discoloration is a sign of corrosion and you should have these pipes replaced.
• Make sure you keep your main water valve easy to turn by using some silicone-based lubricant on the valve stem and spreading it by opening and closing the valve a couple of times.
• If you have a septic tank, have it inspected regularly, and have it pumped every two years or as recommended per the inspection.
• If you have a problem with tree roots, have your sewer line snaked every year.

Quick Fixes

Is your toilet running continuously? Does your shower head spray off in all directions due to mineral buildup? Does your garbage disposal smell bad or not run as it should? Here are a few easy fixes to some common home plumbing maintenance issues for you to try out.

• A continuously running toilet can be caused by several things. A worn flapper, or a chain that is too short or too long and gets hung up are probably the most common and easiest to deal with. The flapper and chain can be replaced inexpensively and simply. And if it’s a too-long chain that’s hanging up, you can just shorten it.
• A shower head that has mineral build up can be cleaned by submerging it in vinegar overnight, then giving it a quick scrub. This works on faucet aerators too.
• A smelly or grimy garbage disposal can be cleaned by using ice cubes made of white vinegar and running them through the garbage disposal.
• If your toilet rocks a bit when you move on it, the mounting bolts may simply need to be tightened or replaced if rusted. Unfortunately, if the bolts are fine, it may be the flange, the piece that connects the toilet to the floor and to the sewer line. While this is not a quick fix, you can still accomplish it yourself. It may also be the wax ring that sits between the toilet’s base and the flange.
• Some drippy faucets can be remedied just by replacing a bad washer or cartridge (a valve in two handle faucets). Others can be fixed simply by tightening the aerator.
• Some shower head leaks can be fixed by ensuring a tight connection with the pipe stem and by securing with pipe tape, also called Teflon tape. While you’re at it, see if you need to replace the washer as well.
• If your garden hose leaks at the spigot, you can replace the washer, and use a wrench and some pipe tape to make sure you have a tight connection.
• Check faucets that don’t get much use and if they are stiff, dismantle and apply a silicone-based lubricant to ease their movement. 
• Inspect the points where the dishwasher discharge connects with the garbage disposal and where the disposal discharge goes to the sink drain and replace the gaskets if you find any sign of leaks.

Maintenance of your plumbing system is something you should be thinking about on a regular basis. Not only will plumbing maintenance help keep things running smoothly in your home, it will also help to protect you from big and costly problems in the future. This plumbing maintenance checklist will get you well on your way to a healthier plumbing system for you and your family.

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Your home’s ductwork is a pipeline that leads from your heating and cooling units through your supply ducts to your supply registers. These supply registers provide your rooms with conditioned air and carry air back from your return registers through the return ducts. Leaks anywhere in this system can cause you significant problems, not only with your comfort, as cooled or heated air is lost, but also with your wallet, as your energy costs go up. The air quality in your home can also be affected as pollutants can be drawn into your duct system through leaks and circulated through your home.

The typical home loses 20 percent or more air from its ducts due to leaks. Not only are leaky ducts losing your conditioned air, but your whole system is losing efficiency, by up to 20 percent according to EPA Energy Star product manager Doug Anderson. Furthermore, leaks in the return ducts can allow unsafe air into the system. This polluted air, once drawn into your system, is then circulated throughout your home, potentially causing health issues for you and your family.

Ductwork often runs through the unconditioned areas of your home, such as your attic, crawlspace, garage, or basement. It can be made of a number of materials. The most common is sheet metal, but some are constructed from fiberglass duct board, and some are flex duct, which may or may not come already insulated. No matter the type of ductwork you have, leaks are a common problem.

Aside from the general statistics, there are a number of clues your home could be giving you that you have leaky ductwork. These include:

• Do you have rooms that don’t heat or cool as well as others?
• Do you have rooms that become dusty when you turn on your air conditioner?
• Have you been having higher energy bills?

Rooms that aren’t heating or cooling well could mean that heated and cooled air just isn’t making it to those rooms due to leaks. A dusty room could mean, as mentioned above, that the return ducts have leaks that are pulling dust, insulation fibers and who knows what else into your home. This can be a serious health hazard. And, of course, higher utility bills are a red flag that your system is working harder than it should be, possibly because it is having to compensate for leaks in your ductwork.

Now let’s talk about insulation. Materials that easily conduct heat, such as sheet metal, will lose between 10 to 30 percent of the energy applied to heating and cooling through their surfaces during temperature extremes when they are located in unconditioned areas. Inadequate insulation costs you in energy and comfort. It may also result in condensation on the surface of your ductwork and consequent problems with moisture, such as mold growth and rusting.

So, how do you as a homeowner address this problem? The EPA recommends that you hire a professional to do the work for you. However, if it is safe to do so, you can seal and insulate your ducts yourself.

What to do Before you Seal and Insulate your Ductwork

As with most big home projects, there are safety issues to consider. Before you start sealing or insulating your ductwork, you should check your home and HVAC system for any problems that you must take care of ahead of time. Look for:

• Structural problems within your home
• Damage to or design problems with the ducts themselves
• Mold, asbestos or other contaminants in your home or ductwork
• Evidence that testing and sealing your ductwork would create health problems for individuals living in your home
• The ability of the ductwork to be safely accessed and worked with
• Any other health or safety issues, such as knob-and-tube wiring, animal or insect infestations, toxic materials, solvents, non-IC rated can light fixtures and so forth

Once you have either determined that there is no impediment to moving forward, or you have had a professional clear any problems you discovered, you can proceed with sealing your ducts. Remember, you must seal your ducts as thoroughly as possible before you insulate them. One possible exception is if you are using preformed insulation sleeves on round ductwork as discussed below.

How to Seal Ductwork

As sheet metal ductwork is the most common, we will concentrate on ductwork made of that, which can be rectangular, round, or both depending on each individual duct’s placement in the system.

The first thing you have to do is find the leaks. There are a couple of ways to do this. You can have a professional come and do a test on your system, or you can do it yourself.

Common areas where leaks occur include:

• At registers and vents where they come into a room
• At joints or connections

You may also find holes, missing pieces, or disconnected ductwork. Sealing the leaks in the unconditioned areas of your home (attics, crawlspaces, garages and basements) is more critical than those in conditioned spaces.

1. Start at the heating and cooling units and work your way to the final register in your home. Mark any leaks you find with something you can easily see when you go back to do the sealing. You don’t want to miss any spots. Do this with the system running so you can feel for leaks as you also look for places that have rusted or have become discolored, indicating a possible leak.
   
   Since the pressure on leaks near your units is greater than those farther away, these are most important to discover and seal. Also, there tend to be more leaks in this vicinity.
   
2. Before sealing your ducts, make sure the surfaces to be sealed are clean and dry, especially if you plan to use tape as your sealant.
3. Next, seal the leaks with one or more appropriate sealants. Start at your heating and cooling units and work toward the last register, as you did when searching out the leaks. Make sure to seal every hole and seam.
   
   There are a few options to choose from when it comes to which sealant to use.  The most commonly used type is mastic. This is a gray paste that can be spread on holes, over gaps and at the joints to seal leaks. However, for wider gaps, over one-eighth inch, you will need mesh, or web, tape in conjunction with the mastic to complete the seal. Mastic is popular because it provides a strong, durable, long-lasting seal. But, it may be better to use tape in places that you will need to access later, such as near the evaporator coil or end cap where you might want to do some cleaning.
   
   To use mastic, which comes in a tub or bucket, spread it with a stiff paint brush or your gloved fingers around or over the area to be sealed. It also comes in caulk tubes for more precise applications. You’ll want to use an even layer about the thickness of a nickel for the best seal. You should wear protective clothing that you can throw out as the mastic is a bit messy. It’s also best to keep the mastic off of your skin.
   
   You can also use foil duct tape or butyl duct tape in conjunction with or instead of mastic. Some foil tapes are actually mastic tapes as well. If you choose to use foil tape, choose one with the Underwriters Laboratories (UL) logo on it.
   
   Never use old-fashioned duct tape; it will not hold. If you do use tape, you can increase the seal by adding a layer of mastic over it. Remember, tapes will have a tendency to pull away over time.
4. Check to make sure you have sealed all the places you marked, including joints, and the connections at vents and registers. You may want to tighten your vents as well to make sure you aren’t losing air between the vent and the floor, ceiling or wall.
5. Make sure the mastic has dried before you move on to insulating your ductwork.

Once you have sealed all the leaks you have found in your ductwork, you will need to have a couple of tests done before you move forward with the insulating. The first is an air flow test to make sure your system’s air flow has not been adversely affected by sealing. The second test is a combustion safety test to ensure that the results of combustion, such as gases from gas appliances, are not being pulled into the home through back drafting. Note that various government entities and utility companies will give credits for improving your energy efficiency. So, check into these to help pay for the necessary testing. Your energy savings alone may even cover your expenses.

How to Insulate Ductwork

First, why insulate your ductwork? All that energy loss mentioned above is costing you money. Insulating your ductwork could save you 10 to 30 percent on your energy bills. Additionally, you will be more comfortable because your air will arrive in your rooms closer to the temperature you set as it will not be giving up or gaining excess heat through uninsulated surfaces. As an added bonus, insulation also helps to dampen the noise made by your heating and cooling units, making for a quieter home for you and your family.

How you insulate your ductwork will depend on the type of ductwork you have and the type of insulation you choose. Fiberglass is the most common type of insulation used. It often comes in rolls (wrap, or blanket-style) with a foil backing and is relatively easy to work with. The foil facing serves as a barrier to moisture and helps keep indoor humidity controlled.

There are a few other types of duct insulation available, including one in the form of a layer of polyethylene bubbles between two radiant barriers. Each type has its own benefits and drawbacks. Be sure to do your homework before choosing the best option for you.

The R-value is a measure of how well the insulation resists heat loss or gain from the ductwork you want to insulate. So, insulation with a higher R-value generally works better. Be sure to check all relevant codes when installing new duct insulation to be sure you comply with the required R-values for your state. Note that R-values may be different for different parts of your system, and for different areas of your home.

When working with fiberglass insulation, always use gloves, safety goggles, protective clothing and an appropriate dust mask. Read the manufacturer’s product information before you begin.

To insulate your ductwork using wrap-style, foil-faced fiberglass insulation:

1. Measure your ductwork.
2. Measure and cut your insulation so there is a small overlap.
3. Make sure the fiberglass is facing the ductwork and the foil vapor barrier is facing outward.
4. Staple and/or tape the sides of the insulation together using pieces of foil, vapor retarder duct tape.
   
   Take care not to compress the insulation. It could reduce its effectiveness. Do your best to minimize compression at corners and elbows.
5. Seal the entire seam you’ve just created with your foil, vapor retarder tape.
6. Use the tape to seal all sections of insulation together by wrapping the tape all the way around the duct to connect them. Again, be careful you don’t squeeze or compress the insulation, or it may work less efficiently.
   
   Here’s a tip when using tape. Pull off the backing as you go to avoid the tape sticking together.

• Be sure to seal any rips or punctures in the vapor barrier with tape so no moisture can get in.
• If you are installing preformed insulation, disconnect an elbow, place a plastic cap over the end of the duct and slide the insulation over the duct.
• Make sure you seal all of the ductwork joints you had left unsealed in order to install the insulation sleeves with mastic before you seal the sleeve pieces to each other with HVAC metal tape.

So, how much does it cost to insulate your ductwork yourself? To give you an idea, a homeowner in Northwest Florida could insulate about 1,000 square feet of ductwork for between $500 and $600. That includes your materials, supplies and tools. Considering what you’ll be saving in the long run, that’s not too bad.

Now that you know how to seal and insulate your ductwork you can improve the air quality in your home, save energy dollars, and increase the efficiency of your appliances. In fact, a home that has properly sealed and insulated ductwork may need smaller, less expensive heating and cooling units than one without such ductwork. And don’t forget to check into those tax credits.

The post How to Seal and Insulate Ductwork appeared first on Choice Home Warranty.

If you’re like most people, you probably don’t give much thought to your home’s exhaust fans. Behind the scenes, they do important work for you, both in the bathroom and the kitchen and shouldn’t be ignored. Both types of exhaust fans should be designed to move air out of your home and vent it to the outside and each type has its own specific purposes.

Bathroom exhaust fans remove both moisture and odors from the room. The more important of these two functions is the removal of moisture because too much can lead to the development of mold and mildew. Excessive moisture in the bathroom can even cause paint or wallpaper to peel, among other things. You should run your bathroom exhaust fan when you take a shower and for approximately twenty minutes afterward to dispel the moisture build up. If you take especially hot showers, run the fan for 25-30 minutes.

In the kitchen, not only does the exhaust fan pull away steam from cooking, but also smoke, odors, heat and even grease. You should use your kitchen exhaust fan every time you cook. Even so, grease will build up on the exhaust fan filters and eventually make it to the fan itself. However, if grease is allowed to build up on these fans, it will eventually affect the fans’ performance and could cause them to fail. In more dangerous situations, a grease fire could be the result. For these reasons, your kitchen exhaust fan should be cleaned at least once per year.

The kitchen exhaust fan filters also pose a fire hazard when allowed to build up with too much grease. These should be cleaned much more often. Not only can the built-up grease in the filters ignite, but also grease can drip down onto an ignition source, like hot pans or heating elements, and cause a grease fire. Keeping these filters clean is a relatively easy task but a very important one for the safety of those in your home.

It may come as a surprise, but bathroom exhaust fans can also become a fire hazard. The buildup of lint and dust can ignite if the fan gets too hot, causing the surrounding materials to catch fire as well. So, while you should run your bathroom exhaust fan long enough to rid your bathroom of excess moisture, you should not run it any longer than necessary or leave it running when you are not at home.

Since sometime in the 1990’s, homes have been equipped with thermally protected bathroom exhaust fans to help combat this problem. You should replace your bathroom fan with a thermally protected unit if your bathroom exhaust fan suffers from any of the following problems:

• It is not easily accessed for routine cleaning
• It looks like it’s had heat damage
• It does not turn effortlessly

Bathroom exhaust fans should be cleaned at least once per year, but twice is better. This will not only help prevent fires and the growth of mold or mildew but will also make them run more efficiently.

Another thing you might want to consider is to either replace your existing bathroom exhaust fan with a new one that has a timer, or to install a timer on your current fan. That way, your bathroom exhaust fan will go off automatically, keeping it from running for too long and becoming a fire hazard.

At some point, it may become advisable to replace your bathroom or kitchen exhaust fans for other reasons. The average lifespan of a bathroom exhaust fan is about 10 years; but, if it’s making noises or smelling strange, the time has come to replace it. Kitchen exhaust fans have a somewhat longer lifespan of about 15 years. In the meantime, you’ll want to know how to clean these exhaust fans and make cleaning them a regular part of your home maintenance routine.

How to Clean Your Bathroom Exhaust Fan

While cleaning your bathroom exhaust fan once a year is a good rule of thumb. However, if you notice a lot of dust on the cover or your bathroom is getting very steamy while you’re running your fan, it’s time to clean it.

1. The first thing you should always do when undertaking such a project is to turn the power off at the source – the breaker box. Next, make sure you have something sturdy and stable to stand on to reach the exhaust fan cover.
2. Remove any screws holding the cover in place or pull the cover down gently and squeeze the metal pins together to release it.
3. Wash the cover in warm water with dish soap, and a soft scrub brush if necessary, to get all the dirt and grime off.
4. Now, depending on your comfort level, you can choose one of two ways to clean your bathroom exhaust fan:
   • Method one
     • Vacuum the fan and motor assembly with the dusting attachment of your vacuum cleaner to get as much dust and lint as you can from these surfaces.
     • Vacuum the housing around the fan with the dusting attachment or use the crevice tool for tighter spots
     • Replace the cover you have just cleaned, once it’s good and dry.
   • Method two
     • First make sure the power is off at the breaker box.
     • Next, unplug the fan.
     • Remove any other screws anchoring the unit.
     • Remove the fan and motor assembly to be cleaned.
     • Clean the fan blades and other parts of the motor with a damp microfiber cloth. (Make sure everything is dry before you start to put it back together.)
     • Vacuum out the housing with your vacuum attachment. Don’t get too aggressive as you might damage your exhaust vent or housing.
     • Put the fan and motor assembly back in the same way you took it out.
     • Plug it back in.
     • Replace the cover.
5. Turn your circuit breaker back on.
6. Test your bathroom exhaust fan by letting it suck up and hold a piece of tissue to the cover. It should if it’s working properly.
7. Finally, check that your bathroom exhaust fan is actually venting to the outside. You should have a flap over your outside vent. It should be clean and unobstructed. If something is causing it to stay open, even partially, you are losing air conditioning and heat, not to mention that unwanted pests can enter your home this way.

How to Clean Kitchen Exhaust Fan Grease

As mentioned earlier, this is a very important chore. It consists of two parts: cleaning the exhaust fan filters and cleaning the exhaust fan blades and housing. While the kitchen exhaust fan should be cleaned at least every year, the exhaust fan filters should be cleaned much more frequently, as they are doing most of the greasy work. Before embarking on this project, however, you may want to check your manual to see what cleaners are approved for your unit, and to see if your filters are the reusable kind or the kind you just throw away and replace.

To Clean Kitchen Exhaust Fan Filters:

1. For a reusable mesh filter, after removing the filter from its slot, soak it in boiling water, a good grease-cutting dish soap and one-quarter cup of baking soda.
2. Then scrub with a brush that won’t harm the mesh and some more soap.
3. Rinse the filter well; and, let it dry.

Something else you can try is to obtain a water-based degreaser from your local auto parts store and soak your filter in it for a little while. Then rinse it well and let it dry before replacing it.

To Clean Kitchen Exhaust Fan Blades:

1. Turn off the power at the breaker box.
2. Unplug the fan.
3. The next steps are where referring to your manual comes in handy. You’ll want to know what cleaning products you can use on your specific model. Here are two methods you might use:
   • Method one
     • Use trisodium phosphate cleaner, or a solution made of a quart of warm water, one-quarter cup of ammonia and two tablespoons of baking soda.
     • Wear a mask for this.
     • Begin scrubbing at the back of the fan housing, then scrub the blades.
     • Dry with paper towels as you go along.
     • Repeat as many times as necessary to remove all the grease.
     • Allow to dry.
   • Method two
     • Remove any screws holding the fan assembly.
     • Clean the cover and blades with mild soap and a damp cloth.
     • If needed, use an unsharpened knife to scrape off any remaining grease.
     • Rinse well and dry with paper towels
     • Put the fan back together.

Don’t Forget Kitchen Range Hoods

Grease collects under the range hood as well as in the filter and on the fan blades. Make sure you clean this area out on a periodic basis as well to keep grease from collecting and dripping onto your stove. Just as with the exhaust fan filters, grease dripping from the range hood can be a fire hazard.

1. Turn off the power at the breaker box before beginning to clean under the hood.
2. Use a cloth or sponge with a degreaser as approved by your manual to clean these areas, especially where grease collects in the corners or grooves.
3. Your range hood should be cleaned on a regular basis, both inside and out, with a degreaser; or, you can dip a cloth in denatured alcohol to get the job done.

As with your bathroom exhaust fan, you’ll want to know where your kitchen exhaust fan is venting. It should be venting to the outside of your home. However, it is common for indoor range hoods to blow the filtered smoke back out into your home. This is where keeping a clean filter is paramount. This helps not only with keeping the grease out of your exhaust fan, but also from other surfaces in your home as well.

If you are installing a new kitchen exhaust fan, or having your home built, you’ll want to pay close attention to these important construction details. Not only should your kitchen exhaust fan vent to the outside of your home, but it should also be designed to handle the size of your kitchen. Furthermore, all the seams in the venting to the outside should be sealed with metal (aluminum) tape to keep grease out of concealed spaces in your home. As you can imagine, any deposits of grease in these areas could pose a serious fire hazard.

How to Put Out a Grease Fire in the Kitchen

You now know that cleaning your kitchen exhaust fan filters, blades, housing and range hood are all important to prevent grease fires. But, what should you do if a grease fire does occur in your kitchen?

*NEVER throw water on a grease fire; it will only cause it to spread further.

Here are the things you CAN do to douse a grease fire. The idea is to take away its oxygen so it can no longer burn.

• Turn the burner off.
• If safe to do so, cover the flames with the pan’s metal lid, another pot or a cookie sheet by sliding it over the pan. Never try to move the pan.
• Cover the flames with a large amount of baking soda, not flour. Salt will also smother the flames. (Don’t use any other baking powders; they will make it worse.) You can then cover the pan also.
• Use a Class B Dry Chemical fire extinguisher. CAVEAT: you can cause the fire to spread if you spray the extinguisher directly at the flames. You have to stand back and spray, which takes longer. This should be your last resort.

The most important thing you can do in the event of a grease fire is protect your own safety and that of others in the home. If you are unable to contain the fire, get to safety; and, call 911. Close the door on your way out to keep the fire contained.

So, now you know how important it is to keep your home’s exhaust fans clean and running smoothly, both in the bathroom and the kitchen. If you keep up a regular cleaning regimen, your home will stay a lot cleaner, fresher, and safer for you and your family.

The post How to Clean Your Home’s Exhaust Fans appeared first on Choice Home Warranty.

Just like your own lungs, your heating and cooling system pulls air in and pushes air out of your living environment. It is the “lungs of your home”, pushing through the ducts of your heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) system in a network of branching tubes. These ducts, which can be made of fiberglass, sheet metal or other materials, transport the air from your central air conditioner and furnace to all the rooms of your house.

Just living in our homes, we produce a lot of air pollutants and contaminants, such as pet dander, chemicals and dust. Our HVAC systems then breathe these in, recirculating the air an average of 5 to 7 times during the day. Thus, as time passes, contaminants can build up in your duct work.

Almost 25 million people in the U.S., both adults and children, suffer with asthma. Hay fever, or allergic rhinitis, plagues another 50 million Americans. In fact, the CDC reports that allergies are 6^th primary cause of chronic illness in this country. Mold, dust mites and other allergens, which are often found in air ducts, can trigger both asthma and allergic rhinitis.

With all of this in mind, wouldn’t it just make sense to want to clean you air ducts? The experts [Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and National Air Duct Cleaners Association (NADCA)] agree that just cleaning the air ducts themselves isn’t enough and can result in recontamination of the whole system. The entire HVAC system must be cleaned to obtain the desired results, including:

• Air ducts
• Coils
• Drain pan
• Registers
• Grills
• Diffusers
• Air plenum
• Blower motor and assembly
• Heat exchanger
• Air filter
• Air cleaner
• Air handling unit housing

Should You Clean Your Air Ducts?

The benefit to indoor air quality of routinely cleaning your HVAC systems is the subject of continued research. A review was conducted in 2010 of scientific studies regarding duct cleaning by the National Institutes of Health, Office of Research Services, and Division of Occupational Health and Safety (DOHS). According to the study, there just isn’t enough evidence to come to any firm conclusions regarding the benefits to indoor air quality, HVAC system performance and energy usage, or occupational health. Still, the study found definite evidence supporting the fact that air ducts can become contaminated with dust and become a source of microbial growth with normal usage.

However, even if your ducts are extremely well cleaned, changes in indoor air quality vary greatly. Often, the amount of contaminates in the air is greater than before the air ducts were cleaned. The EPA adds that studies have not conclusively shown that contaminate levels go up due to dirty air ducts or decrease after they have been cleaned. A major reason is because any dirt that may collect inside air ducts can stick to the inside surfaces and not travel into the home. Dirty air ducts are only one potential source of pollutants in your home. Things like cleaning, smoking, cooking, or even just walking around can create higher levels of contaminants in your environment than dirty air ducts.

While cleaning air ducts alone has never been shown to prevent health problems, most professionals agree that you should do whatever you can to reduce dust if you have a heightened sensitivity.

When Should You Clean Your Air Ducts?

The EPA suggests doing so with caution so as not to cause more harm. If not done properly, more dirt, dust and contaminants could be released into your home, or your ducts or your heating and cooling system could even be damaged.

According to the DOHS, cleaning your air ducts should be your last resort. Cleaning should be done only after you have thoroughly inspected your system, found the source of any contaminants, and controlled it. If not, the system will just keep getting re-contaminated if not properly addressed. The DOHS goes on to point out that both the EPA and industrial hygienists agree that cleaning your air ducts or replacing them is the appropriate thing to do under the following conditions:

• Permanent or continuing water damage in the air ducts
• Observable slime or microbial growth (insulated air ducts that become wet or moldy can’t be cleaned and must be removed and replaced)
• Build-up of debris in the air ducts that restricts the flow of air
• Dust venting from the supply diffusers
• Offensive odors coming from the HVAC unit or the air ducts
• Infestation by rodents, insects or other vermin

Leading professionals note that if your home is over 10 years old and your ducts have never been cleaned; dust constantly collects regardless of how often you clean; you have allergy symptoms whenever you turn on your heating or cooling system, or your asthma is not being controlled by medication, then cleaning your air ducts is a wise option. If the source of any of these problems is not found and corrected, they will recur.

Professional vs. Do-it-Yourself Air Duct Cleaning

Cleaning your air ducts – actually, your entire HVAC system, really isn’t a DIY project. This is because special tools like high-powered vacuums and agitation equipment, such as rotary brushes, air whips, compressed air nozzles, and “skipper balls” are used to dislodge and remove dust, dirt and other contaminants. These aren’t tools readily available to the average homeowner, nor do they know how to properly use them. The equipment employed depends not only on the type of debris and contaminants, but also on what material the air ducts are made of. Some air ducts are sheet metal, or sheet metal lined with fiberglass insulation, while others are fiberglass board, or even “flex duct.”

Most homeowners would not be able to access their whole system. Sometimes access holes need to be cut in the ductwork which requires professional skill both in creating and closing these openings. Furthermore, the average homeowner does not possess the skills and knowledge necessary to clean their entire HVAC system. In instances where HVAC repair or replacement is necessary, Choice Home Warranty plays a major role.

If air ducts become infested with insects, rodents and other types of vermin that quickly become a serious problem requiring the intervention of a professional. Not to mention the fact that mold clean up presents its own health risks. If you plan on hiring a professional to perform the cleaning of your HVAC system, here are some things to consider according to the FDA:

• There is no such thing as an FDA certified air duct cleaner. Don’t get scammed. The NADCA does certify air duct cleaners if they meet all their requirements.
• Don’t allow them to use chemical biocides (to kill bacteria and mold) or treatments like sealants (to prevent dust and dirt from venting out of your air ducts) unless you completely understand all the pros and cons of doing so. Routine use of sealants in air ducts is not recommended. Very few chemicals have been registered with the EPA for use in your HVAC.
• Be sure to check references and make sure no complaints have been made against them with the city, consumer affairs, or your local Better Business Bureau.
• Interview any company you think you might hire and make sure:
  • They have experience working on HVAC systems, such as yours
  • They take precautions to protect people and pets in your home from contamination
  • They adhere to NADCA’s air duct cleaning standards and NAIMA recommendations if your ducts are fiberglass duct board or internally insulated with fiberglass duct liner
  • They have all required state licenses if needed
  • To get a written agreement with total cost and scope of work before beginning.

How to Clean Air Ducts

Although you won’t be able to reach all the way through your air ducts, there are still things you can do to help keep them clean.

Materials needed:

• Vacuum cleaner – a heavy duty vacuum is best and you can rent one
• Brush – a long-handled dust brush is just right for this. According to the EPA, a soft-bristled brush should always be used on fiberglass.
• Screwdriver
• Cleaning cloths and paper towels
• Broom
• Furnace filter

Air duct cleaning process

1. Cover the supply registers with paper towels by lifting them, wrapping the towel over them and replacing them. This prevents dust and debris from flowing into your home while you are working on other areas.
2. Turn on the fan. Make sure the heating/cooling function is off.
3. Make sure your furnace filter is in place so dirt and debris you dislodge doesn’t get sucked into the fan motor.
4. Clean supply registers using a vacuum or broom, then use a long-handled broom to get deep into the piping system. Make sure the vacuum is running to catch all the dust.
5. Clean return air registers, sweeping as far into the piping or cavity as possible.
6. Turn off the power to the system.
7. Access your air ducts by unscrewing air duct covers and grills. Using your cleaning cloths or soap and water, clean the grates.
8. Vacuum out the air ducts as far as your hose will reach.
9. Clean the blower compartment. With the power off, take off the panels on the front of your furnace to get at the return air boot and the blower compartment. Most of the dirt and dust will build up at the furnace and can cause clogging. Vacuum out the dirt and debris. Be careful not to damage the furnace fan.
10. Replace furnace filter.
11. Finally, if you have trouble with this process, you should call a professional.

How to Prevent Air Duct Contamination

The key to avoiding the expense of having your air ducts cleaned is prevention. According to the DOHS, prevention requires that you:

• Routinely maintain your HVAC system by following your manufacturer’s guidelines for cleaning coils and other components as well as changing HVAC filters.
• Prevent any dust or debris from renovations from getting into the HVAC system by sealing the ductwork.
• Keep up good housekeeping practices in the occupied portions of your home.
• Make sure that no contaminant sources are near any air intakes.
• Consider having your air ducts routinely inspected.

In addition, homeowners can keep dust and debris from accumulating as fast by cleaning their vent covers routinely and changing air filters frequently. Maintaining less than 50 percent humidity in your home also helps, because humidity increases the risk of dust mites and mold.

Keeping dirt and water from getting into your system is the best way to keep it from becoming contaminated. Seemingly minor issues can make for air quality hazards. In addition to the steps listed above, you should:

• Ensure no gaps exist around filters and none are missing.
• Use the highest efficiency filters that your manufacturer recommends
• Use HEPA filters on vacuums, if possible, or highest efficiency filtering bags recommended.
• Keep all moisture out of your ductwork.

How often Should You Clean Your Air Ducts?

The NADCA recommends air ducts be cleaned every 3 to 5 years. According to the NADCA, “If your air ducts look dirty, they probably are.” When deciding for yourself when is best, take these factors into consideration:

• Whether you have pets indoors
• Whether there are smokers living in the house
• Whether the house is extremely dusty
• Whether there are occupants who have asthma, allergies or other respiratory problems
• Whether your climate is excessively humid (could lead to mold or mildew)
• Whether your air ducts may have leaks
• Whether a lot of people live in your house
• Whether there may be water contamination or water damage to your house or HVAC system
• Whether your house has undergone renovations or remodeling
• Whether you are about to move into a new home

Keep in mind that the EPA recommends that air ducts be cleaned only as needed, rather than on a routine basis.

Disclaimer: No recommendation is made herein for the do-it-yourself cleaning of air ducts. Air ducts are made of differing materials which can be damaged if not handled properly. If mold is present in the air ducts, the breathing of spores could present a health hazard. The preceding is for information purposes only.

The post How to Clean Your Air Ducts appeared first on Choice Home Warranty.

If you own a home, chances are you’ve come across an issue or two involving electrical maintenance, either in built-in wiring or appliance issues. From changing a light bulb to dealing with tripped circuit breakers, there are many things that may need attention in your home at some point. First and foremost, safety should be your key concern. Here are a few things you can do to inspect your home for safety issues on a regular basis.

• Be diligent in checking all power cords regularly. If any are damaged, cracked, or have brittle insulation, they should be discarded and replaced. The same is true if any cord or wire is frayed, as they can cause shocks or fires.
• Replace plugs that wobble or fit loosely in the outlet, assuming the problem is not with the outlet receptacle (see below).
• Maintain safe distance between heat sources (space heaters, radiators…etc.) and cords and plugs.
• Test your outlets either by using a receptacle tester or by plugging in something simple, like a radio or lamp. If an outlet isn’t working, it may need to be replaced. All outlets installed near wet places, such as kitchens, laundry rooms, or bathrooms should be ground-fault circuit interrupters, or GFCIs. You test these in the same manner, except if the GFCI is functioning as it should, a lamp should go off when you push the “test” button and back on again when you hit “reset.”
• Ensure proper outlet load. Only one heat-producing appliance, such as a toaster, coffee machine, or space heater should be plugged into an outlet at any time. Major appliances such as refrigerators, dryers and stoves should all be plugged into the wall without the use of an extension cord.
• Inspect breaker box panels for burnt or scorched places or loose wiring. If you find anything, don’t attempt to touch it, call a professional electrician.
• Equip light bulbs with covers/shades because exposed lightbulbs can cause fires.

Note, according to a report posted in March of 2019 by the National Fire Protection Association, the second leading cause of home fires in the U.S. between 2012 and 2016 was electrical failure or malfunctions. These accounted for 13 percent of all residential fires. Most occurred as a result of electrical distribution and lighting equipment (10 percent), making those the third leading cause of home fires. Finally, while approximately 24 percent of electrical fires happen between midnight and 8 A.M., they account for 60 percent of fatalities.

Signs You may have an Electrical Problem

• Frequent problems with circuit breakers overloading, with fuses blowing regularly.
• Lights flicker or dim, with periodic power outages.
• Excessive heat emitted from electrical devices and appliances or causing a tingling feeling when touched.
• Receiving a shock or seeing sparks from any appliance or electrical outlet.
• Burning rubbery smells from your appliance(s).
• Discolored wall outlets or warm to the touch.

5 Primary Causes of Home Electrical Fires

1. Faulty outlets and appliances
   • Most electrical fires are caused by faulty outlets or old appliances. One reason is that old appliances pull a lot of power. Also, there could be problems with the cord, or even the inside of the appliance. Never use an appliance with a worn, damaged or frayed cord because it can apply heat to flammable surfaces. Don’t use it if the receptacle is loose. Never run cords under rugs. Never remove the grounding plug from a cord, modify a three prong plug or force a three-prong plug into a two-prong outlet.
2. Light fixtures
   • Always use light bulbs within the maximum wattage called for by the light fixture. One of the number one causes of electrical fires is using a bulb of too high a wattage. Faulty light fixtures and lamps often cause fires as well. Never put anything flammable, like paper or fabric, over a lampshade for decoration or effect. If a lamp or light fixture seems overly hot when on, decrease the wattage of the bulb.
3. Extension cords
   • These are meant to be used temporarily only, not as a permanent fix. Have an electrician install electrical outlets where you need them, instead of relying on extension cords. Never run cords under rugs and don’t overload the extension cord with a lot of devices.
4. Space heaters
   • These can be quite dangerous, especially the coil-type because the coils get very hot. A safer alternative is the radiator-type. Still, keep them away from anything flammable like bedding or curtains. Make sure you use only the most current model with modern safety features and that it is the right size for the space you are heating. Never leave them unattended. You can easily have a dedicated electrical circuit put in for your space heaters to plug into, but in any case; they should go directly into the wall, not an extension cord.
5. Wiring
   • Older wiring, such as that over 20 years old, is unable to cope with the new appliances of the times, such as video game systems, air conditioners, and wide screen TVs. The same is true of old breaker boxes, which can develop worn connectors that won’t trip the breakers, thus overloading the system and resulting in electrical fires. Since adding all these new devices causes an increase in the total power required and can therefore exceed the original capacity of your home’s wiring, replacing the service panel with a new one having a higher amp rating will allow for the added load caused by the new devices.

If you notice any of these signs, it may be time to call in professional help. Puzzling electrical issues often require proper expertise. However, there are some things you may be able to do yourself, like replacing malfunctioning appliances and even replacing an electrical outlet, also called a receptacle.

Three Types of Terminals

There are (3) types of terminals found on the back of the receptacles (electrical outlets) that will determine how you will connect the wires.

1. Screw type terminals, in which the wires that connect them have been stripped, shaped into a “C,” attached under a terminal screw clockwise, then tightened. These can be difficult to remove if wrapped all the way around the terminals. You may have to strip approximately three fourths of an inch of insulation from the wires first, make a “C” shape, attach to the new terminal and then tighten.
2. Slide in terminals, which are the common kind of receptacles you find in kitchens and bathrooms (GFCIs). With these, you loosen the terminal screw, insert a stripped wire into the slot, and tighten.
3. Push-in terminals, wherein you insert a stripped wire into the terminal hole and the wire is held there by tension inside the hole. You can remove these wires by inserting a 3/32-inch screwdriver into the slot next to the terminal, or by taking hold of the wire and pulling and twisting all at once. These wires can also be cut in close to the terminal.

How to Replace an Electrical Receptacle

How do you know when it’s time to replace an electrical receptacle, also known as an “outlet”? If it’s cracked, plugs fit loosely in it, or it simply isn’t working, it’s probably time. But, before you decide to do any electrical work in your home, you need to determine whether a permit is required in your state, whether you may obtain it yourself, and whether you, the homeowner, are even allowed to do the electrical work yourself. Also, there may be ordinances, rules, or building codes that require you to follow specific procedures when replacing such electrical devices. There may be hefty fines or other repercussions for failing to obtain the proper permits.

It is critical that you replace a receptacle (outlet) with one that is exactly like the old one and has the same amperage rating. The typical 120-volt receptacle will have one of two amperage ratings, either 15-amp or 20-amp. Never replace a receptacle on a 15-amp circuit with a 20-amp receptacle!

There are a couple of ways you can determine the amperage rating for your receptacle. The wiring leading to the 20-amp receptacle, the circuit wires, will be 12 gauge and usually have a yellow sheath. On the other hand, the wires leading to the 15-amp receptacle will be 14 gauge and generally have a white sheath. In addition, the circuit breaker on a 20-amp circuit must be marked with a “20,” and the 15-amp circuit breaker must be marked with a “15.”

Tools and Supplies Needed

• Receptacle tester
• Replacement receptacle
• Screwdriver(s)
• Single edge razor blade or utility knife
• Wire stripper with cutting blade
• Needle nose pliers

Warning: Even if there is no voltage present at the plug end of the receptacle, it may be present inside the electrical box. You must not remove a receptacle with any chance of live voltage being present. If you cannot tell with certainty which circuit breaker delivers the voltage to the receptacle, don’t proceed until all the circuit breakers are turned off.

Steps to Replacing Receptacle

1. Turn off power for the circuit your receptacle is on, at the breaker box, before beginning any work. Use a receptacle tester to make certain that there is no voltage present. But remember, since it is difficult to tell which circuit an outlet is on if there is no power at the plug end, you really need to shut all the breakers off.
2. Remove the center screw to take off the cover plate. It may stick from the paint around it, so just carefully cut the paint away with your razor blade or utility knife.
3. The receptacle is held into the electrical box by two mounting screws. Remove those. Pull the receptacle out carefully to reveal the wires.
4. Next, you need to look at the configuration of the wires. Usually, there will be wires of three different colors attached to the receptacle. The black wire is the “hot” or “live” wire that supplies the voltage and is typically attached to the brass-colored screw terminal. The white wire is the neutral wire that typically attaches to the silver-colored screw terminal. A bare copper wire or a green insulated wire is the ground wire. One of them should attach to the green grounding screw on the receptacle, while another may connect to the electrical box – if it is metal, not plastic. (Some wires will have different configurations, like one hot and one neutral or two hot and two neutral wires. You need to recreate the exact configuration in the new receptacle.)
5. You will now need to confirm the amperage for your new receptacle as explained above. If you find a contradiction in the wiring, such as a 14-gauge wire being fed from a 20-amp circuit breaker, it’s time to call in a professional as this is a potentially very dangerous situation. However, if everything is configured correctly, continue.
6. Remove the wires from the receptacle by loosening the terminal screws. Caution: If you discover that either the wires or the insulation has become brittle or frayed, a professional electrician should rewire that part of the circuit for you.
7. If necessary, strip about three fourths of an inch of insulation from the end of the wires.
8. Connect the wires to the new receptacle in the same configuration as they were connected to the old receptacle. Be sure you create a “C” shaped loop at the end of the wire and loop it in a clockwise direction under the terminal screw heads so these will pull wire loops tighter. Make sure all stripped wire is safely secured under the screw heads and clip off any excess wire without insulation. Never connect more than one wire to a single terminal.
9. Now carefully replace the wires in the electrical box and push it back in. Replace the mounting screws and put the cover plate back on. Make sure you have installed the receptacle correctly for the type of cord it will take, a two-prong or three-prong grounding cord. Take note, the slots in some receptacles are not alike, as one is wider than the other one. The wider one contacts the neutral wire and the narrower one contacts the hot wire. The difference in size means the plug will only fit in one way, so you want to install the receptacle accordingly. The reasoning behind the “polarized” plug is that it continues the neutral and hot wire configuration from the circuit to the appliance.
10. Restore power to the circuit. Use your receptacle tester to make sure you have wired the receptacle properly.

There are many things you can do to help keep your home and family safe from electrical problems. Regularly inspecting your appliances, breaker box, cords and wires is a great way to start. You can also do routine, simple electrical maintenance around the house, like replacing worn out appliances, wires and cords. Following the safety rules outlined above will help to prevent electrical fires as well. However, when it comes to larger electrical maintenance issues, it may be best to let a professional electrician do the work for you.

*Performing electrical maintenance can be dangerous. A licensed electrician should handle most electrical maintenance jobs in your home to ensure your safety. The preceding is for information purposes only.

The post How to Perform Electrical Maintenance appeared first on Choice Home Warranty.

According to the Department of Energy (DOE) Survey in 2009, 98 percent of homes had standard (tank) water heaters, of which 51.4 percent were natural gas water heaters and 41.3 percent were electric. That same year, about 8 million water heaters were purchased, with about 82 percent being sold as replacement units rather than for new construction. Water heaters account for approximately 14 to 18 percent of residential energy usage each year.

Your hot water heater is an appliance that you use every day. You need it to clean your dishes, your clothes, and yourself. As such, it is also an appliance you want to keep in good working order. After all, a new water heater can be expensive, costing over $1,000 dollars in most cases.

One of the often-neglected maintenance duties is draining, or flushing, your hot water heater. But before you undertake such a task, it is important to understand that the water will be very hot; and, you could get scalded if you don’t take the appropriate precautions. While this article will provide you with a general guide to how to drain a water heater, it is not intended to take the place of your owner’s manual. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this maintenance yourself, you should hire a professional to do it for you.

Why should I Drain my Water Heater?

The average lifespan of this appliance is around 13 years. Over time, sediment, such as magnesium and calcium or calcium carbonate can build up in the bottom of the tank. Draining, or flushing, can eliminate bacteria as well as this sediment. It can also extend the life of your water heater and make it more efficient in its operation, saving you money. So, clearly, this is a task you want to perform on a regular basis. More on that topic later.

Do I have to Drain my Gas Water Heater?

Yes. All the same rationale applies to gas water heaters. The instructions below will differentiate between gas and electric water heaters whenever necessary.

How-To Drain Water Heater

1. Turn your electric water heater off at the circuit breaker. There are two schools of thought regarding the gas water heater. You can either turn it to the “pilot” setting or turn it off at the main gas line.
2. To let the water heater, cool down before you begin, open the hot water side of the shower, tub, and /or sinks. Since the way water heaters work is by letting hot water flow from the top of the tank while cold water comes in at the bottom to keep it full, this step will help you replace the hot water with cold water. Turn the faucets off when you are done with this step.
3. Connect a hose of good quality to the water heater drain valve and place the other end in the floor drain or, if none, outside.
4. Open a hot water faucet close to your water heater to allow air back into the water heater. This will keep a vacuum from forming that would otherwise stop the water from flowing out.
5. Turn off the cold-water supply inlet valve at the top of the water heater or turn off the water at the meter.
6. Open the temperature and pressure release (TPR) valve. This valve is located near the top of the tank. Also referred to as the “T & P” valve, it is a safety device that is made to open and relieve high temperature and/or pressure to avoid an explosion should heat or pressure build up in your water heater.
7. Open the drain valve near the bottom of the water heater to let the water drain out through the hose.
8. When the water stops, turn off the drain valve, close the TPR valve, remove the hose, check for mineral build up in the drain valve and clear any clogs in the drain valve with a wire.
9. If the T & P valve doesn’t reseal due to sediment, pull on its handle a few times in order to flush the sediment out. If it won’t seal, contact a professional immediately and have the valve replaced. NEVER cap the T & P valve’s discharge pipe to stop a leak.
10. Replace the hose, open the drain valve and turn the water back on, at the cold-water supply inlet valve or at the meter, letting the tank fill until it flows from the hose for 2 to 3 minutes, then shut off the water again and allow the tank to drain. Repeat this step until the water flows clear.
11. Shut off the drain valve and take off the hose.
12. To fill the tank, open the cold-water supply inlet valve or turn the water on at the meter.
13. Make sure the drain valve is closed and isn’t leaking. If it is, turn off the water, clean any sediment from the valve, then restart the water and make sure the leak is fixed. Then fill the water heater.
14. Let the hot water faucet flow while the tank is filling until the water from the faucet runs clear and there is no air coming out. Turn on more faucets in the house, upstairs too if you have one until the water runs clear.
15. Turn the water heater back on at the breaker for electric water heaters and for gas water heaters, either turn your thermostat back up to its original setting or turn the gas back on.

How often to Drain a Water Heater?

The consensus regarding how often to drain a water heater is that both electric and gas water heaters should be drained at least once a year, at least in areas with hard water. However, the U.S. Department of Energy, through Energy.gov, recommends that you flush a quart of water from your tank every 3 months as regular maintenance, depending on the type and model of your water heater. The National Board of Boiler and Pressure Vessel Inspectors recommends that, following the guidelines listed above, you drain several gallons of water 2 to 4 times a year, and even more often in areas with hard water.

So, to maintain the efficiency of your water heater, and prolong its life, draining it periodically, at least once per year, is a good practice. Of course, your owner’s manual may be your best guide as to how often and how much to drain from your water heater. And again, due to the elevated risk of injury from scalding water, if you don’t feel comfortable performing this task on your own, hire a licensed professional to do it for you. You should always put your safety and the safety of your family first.

The post How to Drain a Water Heater appeared first on Choice Home Warranty.

When it’s running properly, your dishwasher is a time-saving appliance that can help you streamline the seemingly endless job of keeping the dishes clean and your cabinets well-stocked. However, this appliance is prone to some simple problems that may slow down your dish washing routine. If you find a puddle of water in front of the dishwasher or open the unit to find a pool of water sitting inside, you need to act, before it becomes a troublesome flood. Fortunately, this issue is usually easy to solve with a few DIY fixes.

Run Your Drain Cycle Again

The first thing you should do if you find standing water in the dishwasher is run the drain cycle again. In many cases, this will clear out the problem and take care of the excess water that’s sitting in the appliance. After clearing out the water, you may want to continue through the next few steps to clear out any developing clogs and prevent future trouble with standing water in the dishwasher.

Check Your Sink Drain

Run some water in your sink and see if the sink is also clogged. If both the dishwasher and sink are clogged, the issue is likely in the plumbing beneath them. Clear out the plumbing by pouring about one cup of baking soda and two cups of vinegar into the sink. Allow this to fizz for about 30 minutes. This will help get rid of many types of buildup in the pipes. Finish by pouring some dish soap into the drain and pouring a kettle of hot water down after it.

Clear the Garbage Disposal

If you have a garbage disposal, this may be the source of your trouble. You can help clean off a garbage disposal by tossing some ice down and turning the disposal on. The ice will knock gunk and debris off the blades without damaging them. Run water down the garbage disposal for 20 to 30 seconds to help clear out any remaining obstructions. Running the disposal for about 15 seconds after you’re done clearing plates off every day will help prevent this issue in the future.

Clean the Air Gap

The air gap is a small cylinder, typically made of stainless steel or chrome, that connects the garbage disposal to the drain hose for the dishwasher. The air gap is meant to keep an air lock from developing in the host. However, it can become clogged. Remove the air gap by unscrewing it counterclockwise. Look for gunk and debris inside, and clear this out with a stiff cleaning brush.

While you have the air gap off, you can also inspect the dishwasher’s drain hose. This can become clogged as well. Try blowing air into the drain hose to see if it flows through readily. If it doesn’t, then you likely have a clog here. You’ll need to remove the hose entirely to clean it our properly. You can typically do this wish dish soap, hot water, and a long brush.

Examine the Dishwasher Drain

Look for the drain inside the dishwasher to make sure there isn’t a clog here. You may need to remove a plastic cover to expose the drain fully. Consult your dishwasher’s manual for instructions on where this part is located and how to access it.

If there’s a visible buildup of food and other debris inside the dishwasher, you should clear this out thoroughly, so water can flow through the drain easily. Baking soda and vinegar will work here as well, to help dissolve any clogs or buildup that are lingering beyond the drain, where you can’t quite reach them.

When you’re finished clearing the drain, run the dishwasher empty with about a cup of bleach inside. This will help clean the appliance out more thoroughly. Run an empty load with hot water after your bleach cycle before washing dishes in the appliance.

Look at Key Dishwasher Parts

If you haven’t located the problem in any of the previous areas, there are some other dishwasher parts that you can inspect for signs of damage. Try these tasks:

• Check that the valve bracket moves freely
• Inspect the drain hose positioning for kinks
• Make sure the dishwasher timer and electronic controls are operating properly

If you don’t see damage in any of these areas, it’s probably best to call a professional for a more thorough inspection of the appliance. A repair technician will check additional parts for signs of damage, including the:

• Door switch
• Pump solenoid
• Drain pump
• Drain motor
• Piston and nut assembly
• Belt

If you have repeated problems with a dishwasher that isn’t draining, despite your best efforts to clean drains and clear pipes, do speak with a professional to make sure you’re not dealing with a serious problem.If you have a home warranty covering your plumbing, you may qualify for a new dishwasher if your current appliance cannot be repaired.

The post What to Do if your Dishwasher is not Draining appeared first on Choice Home Warranty.

A clogged toilet is an unpleasant, but not uncommon, problem. We’re all familiar with the dreaded signs – the slow drain, the rising water level, and the mess that won’t flush away. If you’re dealing with a clog in your toilet, there are several things you can do to clear the problem. Try these steps to get things flowing again.

Prevent an Overflow

While working on your toilet, it’s important to keep an eye out for rising waters that may get too high. You can prevent an overflowing toilet in two ways. Be prepared to implement these solutions as soon as you notice the water rising higher than normal. If you act quickly, you can prevent a septic disaster and keep water where you want it – in the bowl.

When waters are reaching dangerous levels, you can:

• Remove the lid from the toilet tank, reach in, and hold down the toilet flapper. This will stop fresh water from feeding into the toilet.
• Turn off water to the toilet at the source. The water supply can be found behind the toilet.

You don’t need to implement these solutions if the water isn’t in danger of overflowing. If water can still drain around the clog, you may find that you can flush safely without having to stop the flow of fresh water to the toilet.

Dislodge the Clog

There are several things you can do to try and dislodge the clog before you reach for the plunger. Start with a combination of baking soda and vinegar. About one cup of baking soda and two cups of vinegar will do the trick for most clogs. Pour this in and allow it to sit for 30 minutes. The fizzing action of the vinegar and baking soda can help dissipate the clog for you.

If the baking soda and vinegar trick doesn’t work, pour about half a cup of dish soap into the toilet and follow this with a bucket of hot water. Pour the water into the toilet from about waist height. The soap offers lubrication to help the clog slide through the pipes, while the hot water provides a gentle push of force to get things moving.

Pick the Right Plunger

It’s important to choose the right plunger for the job. When you’re working with a toilet, you want to use a plunger with a flange. The flange is the piece that extends down from the rim of the plunger. This type of tool is also known as a funnel-cup plunger. A standard plunger lacks this extra part at the bottom. Regular plungers may work for a sink, but the flange on a funnel-cup plunger helps form a stronger seal in the uniquely-shaped bowl of a toilet.

Plunge Properly

The toilet bowl should be halfway full while you’re plunging. If it’s too full, remove half of the water. You can remove the water with an empty water bottle. Squeeze the bottle, place the open end in the water, and let go, so the bottle pulls the water inside. Wear rubber gloves while doing this to protect your hands from any splashing.

If the toilet is too empty, add water as needed so the plunger is submerged while you’re working. When the bowl is ready, follow these steps to successfully loosen the clog.

• Warm the plunger by holding it under hot running water. This will soften the rubber and help you get a stronger seal.
• Position the plunger in the toilet bowl so the flange sits in the drain opening. The plunger should cover the opening completely and provide a strong seal.
• Push down with the plunger and pull up strongly, creating several shallow, powerful thrusts.

After plunging for a few moments, remove the plunger to see if water flows down the toilet. If the water is still shallow, you may need to flush the toilet or otherwise add more water to the tank to see if the clog Is still obstructing the flow.

Use an Auger

If your plunger isn’t doing the job, you may want to try an auger to clear the clog in your toilet. An auger is a long, coiled cable attached to a hand crank, which you can insert in the toilet to loosen clogs. To use an auger:

• Insert the tip into the drain of the toilet.
• Crank the auger handle in one direction until it no longer moves.
• Retract the auger, pulling it out gently.
• The auger may either loosen the clog, so it can flush away easily, or catch the clog and pull it back up.

If these methods don’t work, you may need to call a plumber for professional help with your clog. While most clogged toilets can be with these DIY methods, you should seek professional assistance for those issues that are simply too difficult for your own tools and at-home methods. With the right help, you can get your toilet flowing again in no time.

The post How to Unclog a Toilet appeared first on Choice Home Warranty.

But not every home repair has to be frustrating. There is good news: there’s always a way to fix it — and we will show you how. In this article, we share some of the most frustrating home repairs that can happen, explaining why they’re such a problem, what you can do to fix it, and how you can stop it from happening in the future, too. Often, good maintenance habits, regular inspections, and staying on top of warning signs are all that’s needed to prevent some of the worst and most frustrating home repairs from happening.

Read on to learn about frustrating home repairs, how you can fix them, and which maintenance tasks you should stay on top of to avoid running into one of these home repairs that are tough to deal with.

Photo by Flickr user usdagov

The most frustrating home repair: A dead oven on Thanksgiving Day

Denise Supplee, cofounder of SparkRental.com, experienced the classic home repair horror story: a dead oven on Thanksgiving Day. “It was Thanksgiving Day, I put my turkey in the oven, and after several hours went by, I realized there was no scrumptious turkey cooking smell,” says Supplee. “Opening the oven door, I realized the oven was not on.”

She discovered that the oven had in fact died. Fortunately, one of her guests lived close by and they were able to use their oven. Dinner was delayed, but it was all good. Supplee ended up having to replace the oven.

Why it happens: Ovens can fail for a number of reasons. It could be that the heating element is burned out, your electronic control board is not working properly, the safety valve is not working, your temperature sensor is malfunctioning, or the igniter has failed.

How to fix it: If your oven is dead on Thanksgiving Day, you’re probably out of luck unless you can find a nearby oven like Supplee did. A broken oven will need repair or replacement to get back in working order, but a repair professional will be hard to come by on Thanksgiving Day.

How to prevent it: You can do your best to avoid a Thanksgiving oven mishap by testing your oven out in the days before the big holiday. If you don’t use your oven daily, make sure to turn it on and check to see that it is heating up properly. If you notice issues, get in touch with a repair professional immediately so they can fix the problem well before the big day.

If your oven is dirty, resist the urge to run a self cleaning cycle on it before major holidays. Self cleaning cycles can be really hard on your oven, sometimes burning out heating elements or even your control panel. Doing so can leave you with a broken oven just before you really need it. If you absolutely must clean it right before the holidays, use elbow grease instead of the self cleaning cycle.

Photo by Flickr user 18284386@N02

The most frustrating home repair: Damaged and leaking roof

Lauren Haynes, home maintenance expert at Star Domestic Cleaners says a damaged and leaking roof caused by clogged gutters is one of the most frustrating home repairs. It often happens in the winter and can cause serious damage, as parts of your roof and the trim of your home rot, break away, or otherwise let moisture into your home.

Why it happens: This problem happens often when gutters are clogged due to leaves and rain, causing a water backup. If temperatures turn freezing, those water backups can become ice dams and damage your roof, allowing water and moisture to get inside.

How to fix it: Once the damage is done, you’ll have to call a roofing company for a professional fix. Roof leaks are difficult to diagnose and repair properly, so it’s best to call for help from an experienced professional who can get the job done correctly and prevent further damage to your home.

How to prevent it: Gutter cleaning may not be the most enjoyable home maintenance task you can think of, says Haynes, but it is essential for keeping the property well protected from water and moisture. Without a proper gutter system that directs rainwater away, the ceiling, walls and foundations of your house can be easily damaged. A regular gutter cleaning and inspection helps prevent such problems in the long run.

Haynes recommends a close inspection that can reveal broken, cracked, or otherwise failing rivets or seals. You should check the fascia boards for rotting areas or any panels that have come away from the walls. All trouble spots should be repaired or replaced.

After inspection and repair, Haynes encourages home owners to clean gutters and downspouts so that they’re clear of falling debris and leaves. She recommends scooping it out into a bucket and using a stiff brush to wash away and clean up the remaining dirt inside the top to ensure thorough gutter cleaning.

For a thorough clean, use plumbing rods or a long pole to check that there are no further blockages of wet leaves or debris. Using a hose, or, if you have one, a pressure washer, clean out the guttering by letting the water release in the direction of the downspout. If the water doesn’t directly come out at the bottom of the downspout, then you’ll know that you have some debris blocking the pipe, which you’ll have to push out to clear the obstruction.

Photo by Flickr user zombie

The most frustrating home repair: Plumbing surprises

Elizabeth Dodson, cofounder of HomeZada says plumbing repairs home owners don’t know how to handle can be incredibly frustrating. For example, an overflowing toilet or a burst pipe may require the help of a plumber to fix. And plumbing issues can quickly get out of hand, flooding your home and causing serious (and expensive) damage.

Why it happens: Plumbing can fail due to clogs, slow leaks, or simply old pipes. You can even have faulty fixtures, frozen pipes, and other problems. A plumbing failure is nothing to ignore, as it can become serious very quickly.

How to fix it: Dodson says that while the average home owner may not know how to fix a burst pipe or broken toilet, it is good to know how to shut off your water at your toilets and your main water supply. If you’re able to do this, you can stop damage from water in your home, potentially saving thousands of dollars in repairs.

How to prevent it: The best way to prevent plumbing surprises is to carefully maintain your plumbing system. Insulate your water heater and pipes and inspect faucets inside and out to make sure water is flowing freely. Don’t allow unflushable items to be flushed in the toilet, like paper towels, wipes, sanitary napkins, cotton swabs, or floss. Pull hair out of shower drains and use a metal drain cover to catch hair in the tub as it’s drained. You can also snake your own drains to bust up small clogs regularly so that they don’t become big problems.

Photo by Flickr user chefmattrock

The most frustrating home repair: Electrical problems

Modern homes simply don’t run without electricity. Your refrigerator, air conditioning, TV, none of it runs if your electrical system isn’t working. So if your electrical system is having problems, your home essentially shuts down. And unfortunately, electrical repairs are the most difficult to DIY, as they can be incredibly dangerous to handle if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Why it happens: Wiring can get old, so do breaker boxes. Other problems are caused by loose wires, electrical malfunctions, or improper wiring or installation.

How to fix it: Fixing electrical issues is definitely left the professionals, says Dodson. The worst thing that can happen is you get electrocuted or shocked from trying to fix something that is not in your wheelhouse or your experience.

How to prevent it: If you notice problems like losing power to only part of your house, flickering lights, switches or outlets that don’t work, frequent tripping of circuit breakers, popped fuses, large or frequent sparks when you use an outlet, feeling a mild shock or tingle when you touch an appliance or plug something into an outlet, or even a strange electrical smell or warmth on your walls near outlets or ceiling fixtures, you could have an electrical problem. The best way to prevent surprises with your electrical system is to stay aware of signs of problems and get help from an electrician right away if you notice them.

Photo by Flickr user wwworks

The most frustrating home repair: Deck collapse

With a deck collapse, the floor falls right out from under you. It can be devastating and even deadly. And unfortunately, they are not an uncommon occurrence. The International Association of Certified Home Inspectors estimates that of the 45 million existing decks, only 40 percent are completely safe.

A deck collapse can happen at any time, but they are especially likely to happen during parties or any other time when more people put extra weight on your deck. It is almost impossible to avoid injury during a deck collapse.

Why it happens: Decks can only hold so much weight. They may be built to last and properly support a certain amount of weight, but if too many people stand on the deck or there is otherwise too much weight placed on the deck, it can fail. This is especially true if the boards or posts of the deck are old, rotting, or the hardware needs to be tightened or replaced.

How to fix it: If your deck has collapsed, there’s only one thing to do: scrap it and start over with a new deck. A deck that has fallen is not fit to be used again in the future and you’ll need to build a deck that is safe to adequately support weight.

How to prevent it: Heather Stegner with the American Wood Council encourages home owners to use a building inspector to make sure decks are built to code. You can also review the American Wood Council’s deck guide.

But even if you’ve built a safe deck, you’re not done. You’ll need to maintain and inspect your deck. Look for missing or rusted nails or fasteners, identify and fix splinters, loose boards, discolored areas, rotted wood, and other signs of deterioration.

After 15 years, consider replacing, repairing, or reinforcing your deck, as most decks are only built to last about 15 years.

Photo by Flickr user nancyhugo

The most frustrating home repair: A broken built in microwave

Microwaves are not typically a major concern for repairs. In many homes, if your microwave is broken, it’s easy enough to just get a new one. But things get complicated if you have a built in microwave oven. Often, they are specifically sized to the cabinetry and it can be difficult to repair or replace a built in microwave oven without also working on the surrounding cabinetry.

Supplee knows this problem all too well, as her built in microwave oven broke. She discovered that fixing her built in microwave would be costly after she got several quotes.

Why it happens: A small appliance, many microwaves just aren’t built to last. Some problems are caused by abuse, like running the microwave empty or placing metal objects inside. Sometimes, buttons stop working after they’ve been used for a long time.

How to fix it: In Supplee’s case, she remembered that she had a home warranty policy and was able to get her built in microwave repaired for the cost of a call fee. It’s a good idea to have a professional come out to evaluate the problem, as it may make more sense to have your built in microwave repaired rather than replacing it and having to adjust the cabinetry.

How to prevent it: Microwave ovens are not a major appliance, but they do require some maintenance to keep them running well. You should keep it clean, avoid using metal, never run it on empty, and prevent door damage. It’s also a good idea to make sure that the vents are not blocked. This makes it easy for the microwave to vent air as needed and prevent damage.

Photo by Flickr user tabor-roeder

The most frustrating home repair: A dead air conditioner in the heat of summer

If your air conditioner stops working in the heat of the summer, your home can quickly reach high, even dangerous temperatures. And of course, the summer is when most air conditioners fail. After all, high temperatures can push air conditioning units to the limit — and beyond. When an air conditioner fails, it puts you in a really uncomfortable position. You may not be able to sleep or function in your home until it’s fixed, so you’ll have to stay with friends or family or even at a hotel until you’re able to complete repairs. Or, you can sweat it out at home. Either way, it’s a frustrating situation to be in, so it’s best to stay on top of air conditioning maintenance to avoid failure if at all possible.

Why it happens: Air conditioners can have trouble keeping up with the heat if they’re low on freon. Other problems are caused by mechanical parts weighing down. Dust and dirt can be a factor, as outside air conditioning units can get clogged with debris. Or, ducts and air filters that need replacing can make the air conditioner work harder than it should have to.

How to fix it: Air conditioning fixes are rarely at the DIY level. Your air conditioning trouble may be due to low freon, which always requires a licensed professional to fix. Other issues may require specific parts that are difficult for the average home owner to get quickly, but that an air conditioning professional may have on hand or be able to access within hours instead of days. It’s almost always best to consult a professional if you need help fixing your air conditioner.

How to prevent it: Maintenance is the best way to avoid air conditioning problems. Practice good air conditioner maintenance by performing tasks including replacing air filters, cleaning ducts and vents, cleaning air conditioner coils, preventing debris, creating shade for the unit, combing coil fins, and more.

Photo by Flickr user goldberg

The most frustrating home repair: Broken hot water heater/p>

Just as a hot house in the summer is frustrating, a broken hot water heater can leave you feeling cold in the winter. There’s nothing worse than a cold shower on an already cold day. But that’s the least of the problems you could run into with a failing water heater. You could have leaks, damage, and more as a result of a broken water heater.

Why it happens: Often, the problem with hot water heaters is sediment. Over time, sediment builds up in hot water heaters, causing leaks and other damage.

How to fix it: Hot water heater issues usually require the help of a professional, but the problem may be simple enough to DIY. For example, your hot water may be out for something as small as a blown out pilot light. Or, you may need to simply adjust the thermostat to make water hotter or cooler. If you hear noises coming from your hot water heater, there may be sediment built up in the tank causing problems. You can flush your tank to remove the sediment. Or, the noise could be a sign of the heating element burning out.

How to prevent it: Maintenance including flushing and insulating your hot water heater can help extend its useful life. It’s also a good idea to watch for signs of a hot water heater that is past its prime and should be replaced before it has a chance to fail and potentially cause damage. Water heaters more than 10 years old should be considered for replacement. Rusty water, especially coming from the hot side of faucets, rumbling sediment, and water around the water heater are warning signs that you shouldn’t ignore.

Photo by Flickr user greencolander

The most frustrating home repair: A dead refrigerator

A broken refrigerator is one of the absolute worst home repairs to have pop up. It’s usually a surprise, leaving you scrambling to find refrigeration for food before it goes to waste. A refrigerator repair can leave you without a working refrigerator for your food for days, adding to the cost of simply repairing the refrigerator.

Why it happens: Refrigerators fail for a number of reasons. It could be a blown fuse or circuit breaker, the compressor may be failing, you could have a buildup of dust or hair on condenser coils.

How to fix it: Some refrigerator problems require the help of a professional, others can be diagnosed with DIY skills. Depending on the severity of the situation, you may want to call in a professional. Or, if your refrigerator is old and on its last leg anyway, it may be time to upgrade to a new and more efficient model.

How to prevent it: Your refrigerator is probably one of the most used but least maintained appliances in your home. You can help it work properly by keeping it clean, keeping doors closed, using the correct temperature setting, and letting food cool down before you put it in the fridge. Refrigerator maintenance tasks include keeping vents clear, clearing out ice, cleaning door gaskets and condenser coils, and replacing water filters.

Photo by Flickr user outofideas

The most frustrating home repair: Clogged garbage disposal

Your garbage disposal is probably taken for granted, but a clogged garbage disposal can leave you feeling helpless. Your sink will back up with water and you’ll be left unable to do dishes, rinse your hands, or otherwise use your kitchen sink.

Why it happens: Garbage disposals often run into problems when you put things down the disposal that really shouldn’t go there. Animal fat, coffee grounds, egg shells, and more can all cause issues with your garbage disposal.

How to fix it: Some garbage disposal clogs can be DIY fixes. You’ll just need to open up the drain trap and check for obstructions. You may need to use an auger to clear it. If you’re not able to take care of the problem on your own, you’ll need to call a plumber for help.

How to prevent it: Often, garbage disposal problems are caused by putting the wrong things down your garbage disposal. Egg shells and coffee grounds create granular waste that sticks to sludge in the pipe. Potato peels and banana peels form a starchy paste. Fat and other food waste can also clog up a garbage disposal. The best way to avoid a clog is to avoid putting these items down your garbage disposal. It’s also a good idea to use plenty of water as you’re using the disposal, continuing to flush the pipe with water for about 30 seconds after you’re done using it. You can keep your garbage disposal in good working order by grinding up ice cubes and lemon peels as well.

Photo by Flickr user 49364825@N02

The most frustrating home repair: Broken garage door opener

A broken garage door leaves you stuck in the driveway — or even stuck inside the garage. It’s frustrating to be unable to move your car in or out of the garage as planned. And to make matters worse, garage door issues, particularly problems with garage door springs, can be difficult and dangerous to resolve.

Why it happens: Garage door coils can get old and need replacing. Or, electrical elements may have problems. It could be as simple as batteries that need replacing in your electronic transmitter.

How to fix it: A problem like dead garage door transmitter batteries is an easy fix anyone can handle. All you’ll need to do is just replace the batteries, and you’re back in business. But more complicated issues like photo eye or track alignment, the garage door limit settings, or even the springs are best left to the professionals. Garage door springs can be extremely dangerous to work with, so you should never attempt to fix them yourself.

How to prevent it: You can maintain your garage door by performing regular maintenance. Look and listen for jerky movements, unusual noises, and asymmetrical movement and get help if needed. Tighten up roller brackets and bolts, test the balance, lubricate moving parts, check the cables, clear the tracks, and more to keep your garage door moving smoothly.

Another great way to avoid the frustration of these particularly maddening home repairs is to purchase a qualified home warranty service contract. With a home warranty, home repair problems including air conditioner failure, clogs, broken hot water heaters, appliance failure, and more are covered simply for the cost of a service call fee.

The post The 11 Most Frustrating Home Repairs appeared first on Choice Home Warranty.

Experts & Bloggers

Home improvement TV and radio hosts, professionals, and top DIY bloggers share their insight on Twitter.

1. @thisoldplumber: Richard Trethewey is a plumbing and heating expert on This Old House and Ask This Old House. Follow him for updates from the show, DIY projects, and smart solutions.
2. @helfystyle: Adam Helfman is a home improvement expert and radio host. Follow him for tips and advice on hiring the help you need to get home improvement projects done.
3. @KayleenMcCabe: Kayleen McCabe is the host of DIY’s Rescue Renovation and a licensed contractor. Follow her for renovation tips, DIY ideas, and more.
4. @JulianCassell: Follow Julian Cassell, UK DIY expert and author. He shares advice and updates on all aspects of home improvement from how to use tools, choosing the right tool for the job, important steps to take in DIY projects, and more.
5. @benhillmantv: Ben Hillman is an interior design expert, TV presenter, property guru, home designer, self builder, and DIY expert. Follow him to learn everything about home improvement and the great indoors.
6. @carmendelapaz: Carmen De La Paz is a DIY expert and TV host carpenter on Home Made Simple. Her expertise as a designer, carpenter, woodturner, decorative painter, welder, and stone/tile/glass artist is an excellent resource for taking on projects of your own.
7. @TomSilvaTOH: Tom Silva is general contractor of This Old House and Ask This Old House. Follow him to learn about the show and homes Silva is working on.
8. @moneypit: Follow along with The Money Pit, a nationally syndicated home improvement radio show and podcast. Hosts Tom Kraeutler and Leslie Segrete help home owners improve their homes and perform expert repairs.
9. @em_henderson: Emily Henderson is an HGTV host and designer. Follow her for home design, style, and inspiration.
10. @AtHomeSullivan: Gary Sullivan is the host of America’s largest home improvement radio show, At Home with Gary Sullivan. He has been on the air for more than 30 years sharing advice for home improvement ranging from building decks to preparing your home for storms.
11. @Make_It_Right: Mike Holmes, host of Home Free on Fox, Holmes on Homes, Holmes Inspection, and Holmes Makes It Right on HGTV is active on Twitter. He offers advice for making changes to your home — and doing it right.
12. @joannagaines: Joanna Gaines is co host of HGTV’s Fixer Upper along with her husband Chip Gaines. She’s also a renovator, designer, and owner of Magnolia. Get inspired by her updates on Twitter.
13. @chippergaines: Husband of Joanna Gaines, Chip Gaines shares updates from the show along with home improvement and renovation ideas.
14. @BobVila: America’s Handyman Bob Vila always offers fresh tips, insights, and projects for home improvement.
15. @nicolecurtis: Host of HGTV’s Rehab Addict, Nicole Curtis specializes in rehabbing historic homes.

Woodworkers

Love to make furniture and other wood projects — or want to? Follow these woodworking enthusiasts on Twitter to find plans and their latest projects.

16. @GotWoodWrkshop: Matt at the Got Wood Workshop features wood shop tips and projects, wood burned signs, decor, and more.
17. @WoodworkingBiz: Follow the Woodworking Network to stay up to date on the latest in wood product manufacturing including cabinets, furniture, interiors, and closets.
18. @SawdustSisters: Janice is author of Sawdust Sisters, a DIY blog featuring novice woodworking and home decor. She believes in building, making, decorating, and renovating.
19. @diyhuntress: The @diyhuntress is a DIY blogger and woodworker. She features free project plans and inspiration for ideas around the home.
20. @wood_brew: Woodbrew is a husband and wife team, Dylan and Molly. Together, they share woodworking and other fun features including using and fixing tools, kid furniture, and home projects.
21. @thedustylife: Brian McCauley, Kyle Toth, and Sean Rubino host The Dusty Life Podcast. They cover woodworking, home improvement, making furniture, and more.
22. @drunkenwood: David Picciuto is passionate about woodworking and shares tutorials, tips, and new woodworking projects every week.
23. @MattLaneWoodShp: Matt Lane builds wood pieces as a hobby and shares his videos online as he goes. Projects include custom art frames, tables, beds, and more.
24. @WoodWorkLife: WoodWorkLife is a fine woodworking and lifestyle hub sharing projects, tools, and woodworking videos.
25. @Saws_on_Skates: Scott at Saws on Skates eats, sleeps, and occasionally bleeds sawdust. You can follow him for smart furniture, adventures, and DIY plans that offer big impact — even in a small space.
26. @JET_Woodworking: This woodworking supplier shares tips for woodworking, interesting designs, and tools at work.
27. @Glued_n_Screwed: The Glued-N-Screwed Blog is a resource for 20 to 30 somethings learning about woodworking and DIY home repair and improvement.
28. @mrrwmccullough: This blogger features DIY projects for beginners made easy, project inspiration photos, and more.
29. @WoodAndShop: Joshua Farnsworth regularly posts tutorials featuring the ancient trade of handtool woodworking.
30. @FixThisBuildTht: Brad in Nashville offers help with woodworking and DIY projects along with plans and tools. Stay up to date on his latest projects on Twitter.

DIY

You’d be surprised how much you can DIY around your home from design and decor to major renovation projects. See what these Twitter users are DIYing around the house and find out how they’re doing it.

31. @MyFixitUpLife: My Fix it Up Life geeks out over home, tools, color, design, and DIY. Follow Theresa and Mark on their show to learn what they’re DIYing and which projects they’re interested.
32. @HandymansDaught: Handyman’s Daughter is a DIY blogger, home improvement addict, and amateur woodworker in Seattle.
33. @mrfixitdiy: Aaron Massey is a DIY guide, handyman, and home improvement blogger. See his latest fixes and projects here on Twitter.
34. @DIYDoctor: @DIYDoctor is a free online DIY information resource. Get daily home improvement updates, find expert building advice, and ask questions to improve your home the DIY way.
35. @misterbuildit: Mr. Buildit is a creative handyman blogger. He is passionate about helping people build projects instead of buy them.
36. @kimmboes: Kimm at Reinvented is a home decor and DIY blogger. Follow her for DIY decor projects and trash to treasure ideas.
37. @mdprojects2: Vicki and Steph are a mother daughter team of home owners who love working on projects together. Follow them to see their home projects and inspiration.
38. @katiegoldsworth: Creatively Living is a design and DIY junkie source for making what you want for less.
39. @buildlikeachick: This wife and mom isn’t afraid to tackle big DIY projects — including building furniture from scratch. She often builds tables, bookcases, and more.
40. @virginiastblog: Life on Virginia Street features DIY projects, home decor, and more. See how to stain furniture, create abstract art, and other DIY projects for the home.
41. @LazyGuyDIY: Learn about the laid back approach to home repair, woodworking, and building stuff for fun from @LazyGuyDIY.
42. @HomeFixated: Home Fixated is a leading resource for home improvement and tools. Follow Home Fixated for helpful tips, reviews, and even free stuff for home improvement.
43. @TipsHome: @TipsHome is all about home improvement. Follow along to find home improvement tips, news, and more.
44. @littleredbrickh: Sarah at Little Red Brick House loves DIY, home decor, and design. Follow her for decor projects, renovation, and more.
45. @AllDIYGuide: DIY Guide has DIY solutions for everyday home problems. Follow this Twitter account to learn how to do classic home improvement and repair projects.
46. @thediyhubby: Follow @thediyhubby for DIY articles, tool reviews, and useful information for DIYers. Learn why you shouldn’t blame your tools, find tips for woodworking at home, and see the latest tool reviews on this Twitter account.
47. @jimboslicetools: The Jimbo Slice Workshop features tool reviews, advanced DIY, and home improvement videos.
48. @theDIYvillage: Jacque and Matt are DIYing their way through their never ending honey do list. See how they’ve transformed their kids’ bedrooms, do woodworking projects, and master the DIY life.
49. @merrypad: Emily is a home improvement enthusiast. She loves to inspire a DIY lifestyle in others, sharing upcycling projects, renovations, and more.
50. @ToolboxDivas: The Toolbox Divas empower women one DIY project at a time. Follow them to learn about basic home maintenance and home improvement skills.
51. @DoItYourselfcom: doityourself.com is an excellent resource for DIY projects with articles, videos, projects, and questions for home improvement.
52. @WorkshopLH: @WorkshopLH is a blog from the Lifehacker team sharing project ideas, tips, and more.
53. @davidsheinkopf: David Sheinkopf is a DIY expert, general contractor, and co host of HGTV’s Design on a Dime. Follow him to learn about interesting makers, and his latest projects.
54. @uglyducklingDIY: Sarah Fogle is the creator of The Ugly Duckling House blog. She shares ideas for home improvement, DIY, and design.
55. @jobehari: Jo Behari is a London based DIY expert, writer, and speaker. She is a columnist on House Beautiful magazine. Follow along as she paints, tests tools, and takes on DIY projects.
56. @hooksandlattice: Follow Hooks and Lattice for curb appeal ideas. Get started with your DIY outdoor home improvement project, following the account for ideas on shutters, planters, window boxes, fire pits, and more.
57. @JennySteffens: Jenny Steffens Hobick is a home entertaining expert sharing her latest DIY home projects. Find her latest inspiration for everyday occasions and home improvement.
58. @aPurdyLittleHouse: Sue Purdy blogs about everyday DIY and decorating on a budget. Follow along as she upcycles thrift store treasures.

Renovation & Repairs

Fixing and improving your home can be a major undertaking. But with the help of these Twitter accounts, you can learn how to do it like an expert. Follow along as these Twitter users improve their homes.

59. @ashleylmayes: Follow along as Ashley Mayes renovates her home one step at a time. It’s fun to see the progress as she updates with projects small and large.
60. @hellofarmhouse: Follow Hello Farmhouse as she fixes up her 120 year old farmhouse.
61. @RowHouseReno: Chris and Gillian have a 19th century row house in Toronto. Follow along as they DIY their home’s renovation.
62. @ahome2growoldin: This Massachusetts blogger shares updates and inspiration as she works on her 90 year old home.
63. @younghouselove: Follow John and Sherry at Young House Love to learn what they’re working on in their old house.
64. @fixitpodcast: The Fix It podcast explains how you can perform DIY home repair projects. Find out about easy to do fixes so you can take care of your home yourself.
65. @1House1Couple: Kyle and Lisha flipped their house for profit — and they did it during the recession. Follow along as they DIY and document it all on their blog and Twitter.
66. @DesignerTrapped: Tasha is a designer trapped in a lawyer’s body. She loves to DIY as she renovates her outdated home one room at a time.
67. @Remodelaholic: Remodelaholic features extensive remodeling. She is admittedly obsessive about ripping out walls and interior design.
68. @OurBuild: James Mason is a builder teaching people how to DIY and renovate homes online. See how he uses tools, renovates rooms, and more.
69. @SawdustGirl: Sandra Powell is host and creator of Sawdust Girl. She’s on her mission to turn her house into a dream home one project at a time. She’s working on bathroom now, including painting and mudding.

Smart Home

Interested in home automation? These Twitter accounts have the latest in smart home technology with reviews, new products, and more.

70. @CNETSmartHome: The CNET Smart Home is a suburban house getting the Cinderella treatment as a smart home testing ground. Follow along as CNET puts smart home features to the test in this house.
71. @BRUHautomation: BRUH Automation shares home automation how tos, demos, reviews, and more. Follow this account to learn about home automation, smart homes, and the Internet of things.
72. @AutomatingMan: Get insights into smart homes from @AutomatingMan. This tech lover shares smart home news and updates, recommendations, and smart home device testing.
73. @DIY_H_A: This blog is dedicated to the smart home experience. Check it out to find features on technology, reviews, and info on home automation.
74. @SmartHome_News: With Smart Home News, you can stay up to date on the latest in smart home industry news. Learn about new features in home automation and how you can make your home smarter.

Furniture & Building

Get inspired and build something with these Twitter accounts.

75. @BuildBasic: Follow @BuildBasic for easy building plans and tool tutorials. Check out their Twitter account for new projects, DIY inspiration, and customization ideas.
76. @hertoolbelt: Her Tool Belt covers designing and building furniture and crafts. Follow along for plans, giveaways, and inspiration.
77. @thejenwoodhouse: Jen Woodhouse is author of The House of Wood. On The House of Wood, she shares furniture builds and shows you how to do it yourself.
78. @PneumaticAddict: Pneumatic Addict Furniture is a DIY blog with in depth tutorials on furniture building. They also offer tutorials for home improvement, crafts, and other projects.

Publications, Brands & Media

Follow these Twitter accounts to get in depth features and up to date news on everything DIY, home improvement, and renovation.

79. @Family_Handyman: Family Handyman magazine features do it yourself projects for home owners. Follow the magazine on Twitter to learn about engaging, practical ways to improve and maintain your home.
80. @zabitat_us: Follow Zabitat to get connected with home improvement industry products and information. They’ll help you turn expensive, unmanageable home improvement projects into affordable and easy ones.
81. @DIYNetwork: The home improvement how to network, DIY Network is an excellent resource for finding inspiration for your next DIY project.
82. @QualifiedRemod: Qualified Remodeler magazine offers insights and resources for home improvement professionals.
83. @ProToolReviews: @ProToolReviews features industry news, how to articles, and tool reviews.
84. @WoodworkersJrnl: Woodworker’s Journal is America’s woodworking authority. On Twitter, you’ll find woodworker profiles, projects, tools, and more.
85. @ToolinAroundTV: Check out the Toolin’ Around Workshop to catch the latest episodes, see interviews, and learn about the latest tools on the market.

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